The Saudagiri Block Print, a centuries-old hand-printed textile technique practised by artisans in Ahmedabad’s Jamalpur area, has been awarded a prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This recognition not only safeguards its authenticity but also revitalises an art form that has endured for generations, resisting the trends of industrialisation. At the heart of its preservation is the Chhipa community, renowned for its mastery of textile printing and dedication to keeping this intricate craft alive.
For nearly 300 years, Saudagiri (also spelled as Saudagari) Block Printing has been a hallmark of Ahmedabad’s textile heritage, its legacy woven into the fabric of the city’s artisan communities. This meticulous craft relies on hand-carved wooden blocks and natural dyes to create intricate patterns, a skill passed down through generations. Traditionally, these prints have adorned garments such as kurtis, chunris, kurtas, dhotis, turbans, and shawls, each piece bearing the signature of its maker’s artistry.
Through the years, the Khida community played a pivotal role in the expansion of this textile tradition. However, as mass production and mechanised techniques gained dominance, the art of hand block printing found itself in decline. Today, its survival rests largely in the hands of the Chhipa community, whose expertise in textile printing has been instrumental in preserving and revitalising this delicate craft.
i) Hand-carved wooden blocks – Skilled artisans chisel intricate designs onto teakwood blocks, ensuring each pattern retains its authenticity.
ii) Natural dye preparation – Extracted from plants, minerals, and herbs, the dyes are carefully blended to achieve rich, earthy hues that age beautifully over time.
iii) Block printing by hand – The carved blocks are dipped into the dye and stamped onto high-quality cotton fabric with steady, practiced hands.
iv) Layering and drying – Some patterns require multiple layers of printing, with each layer drying naturally under the Ahmedabad sun, to enhance colour depth and vibrancy.
v) Unique regional motifs – The designs, often floral, paisley, and geometric, draw inspiration from Gujarat’s rich artistic traditions and historical architecture
This meticulous technique, shaped by hand-carved blocks and manually applied dyes, ensures that no two prints are ever identical. This preserves the unique character of each handcrafted textile.
Among the artisans striving to revive Saudagiri Block Printing, Shakir Banglawala has emerged as a pivotal figure. Coming from a family that has practised the craft for generations, he has worked tirelessly to ensure its survival, even as machine-made textiles threatened to render traditional techniques obsolete. He acknowledges that industrialisation posed a formidable challenge, but through innovation and contemporary adaptations, the art form has seen a remarkable resurgence.
Shakir's daughter, Irina Banglawala, has taken these efforts further by introducing Saudagiri prints to new audiences. Recognised in the 'Young Artisan' category for her contributions, Irina has blended tradition with modern fashion trends. She has introduced block-printed dupattas that fetch up to ₹2,000, making the craft more accessible and desirable among younger consumers.
Once on the verge of decline, Saudagiri Block Printing is now witnessing a quiet resurgence, driven by renewed recognition and a commitment to preserving its heritage. In the heart of Ahmedabad, where centuries-old pols (narrow neighbourhoods) and bustling bazaars reflect the city’s deep-rooted textile legacy, artisans like the Banglawala family are keeping this craft alive. Inspired by the historic textile mills and vibrant markets of Manek Chowk, the artists blend tradition with modern design sensibilities.
The recent GI tag has further strengthened efforts to safeguard this art form, offering artisans better opportunities and wider markets. While challenges remain, there is a growing sense of optimism that amidst the rhythmic hum of block printing workshops and the scent of natural dyes, this intricate textile tradition will endure for generations to come.
i) Rising demand – Saudagiri block prints are now attracting national and international buyers.
ii) Financial empowerment – Artisans can now command higher prices for their handcrafted textiles, securing better livelihoods.
iii) Cultural preservation – The craft’s history and authenticity are formally recognised, ensuring its continued practice.
iv) Growing awareness – Younger generations are taking an interest, bringing fresh ideas and innovations to the tradition.
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