क्या आपको किशोर कुमार का मशहूर गाना याद है चूड़ी नहीं ये मेरा दिल है, देखो देखो टूटे ना। भारत में बनने वाली चूड़ियों में उन्हें बनाकर तराशने वाले कलाकारों का दिल ही तो मौजूद होता है। चूड़ी शब्द हिंदी के ‘बुंगरी’ शब्द से बना है जिसका अर्थ कांच होता है। शंख, तांबा, कांस्य, सोना, सुलेमानी का उपयोग सदियों से चूड़ियाँ बनाने के लिए किया जाता रहा है। लेकिन जयपुर में मनिहारों का रास्ता में लाख की चूड़ियाँ बनाने की कला विशिष्ट है, जहाँ गली की लंबाई के माध्यम से कोई भी अनगिनत चूड़ियों के रंग बिरंगे दृश्यों और उनकी खनखनाहट से पैदा होने वाले संगीत का साक्षी बन सकता है।
रंगों से सजा हुआ इतिहास
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लाख की चूड़ी बनाना एक विशेष कला है, जो जयपुर शहर की स्थापना जितनी पुरानी है। आमेर के राजा ने उत्तर प्रदेश के मनोहरपुर जिले से सबसे प्रारंभिक शिल्पकारों को बुलाया था। एक बार जयपुर शहर की स्थापना के बाद, इन मनिहार शिल्पकारों ने भी अपने व्यावसायिक आधार को आमेर से जयपुर स्थानांतरित कर दिया। गली अनगिनत चूड़ी बेचने वाली दुकानों से भरी हुई है, जिनका प्रबंधन ज्यादातर मुस्लिम मनिहारी महिलाओं द्वारा किया जाता है, जबकि उनके पुरुष भट्टों और भट्टियों को पिघलाने और कच्चा माल तैयार करते हैं। आज जयपुर में लगभग छह हजार परिवार लाख की चूड़ियां और अन्य सामान बनाने के कार्य में जुटे हुए हैं।
खूबसूरत चूड़ियों को बनाने की कलात्मक प्रक्रिया
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लाख की चूड़ियां राजस्थान की प्रसिद्ध हस्तकला है। ये चूड़ियां मादा लाख कीट द्वारा उत्पादित राल से बनाई जाती हैं तथा ये विभिन्न रंगों और प्रकार की होती हैं। इन पर शीशों के छोटे-छोटे टुकड़े, पत्थर एवं मोती लगाकर इन्हें सजाया जाता है, जिससे ये रुचिकर आभूषण बन जाते हैं। लाख और उससे जुड़े इतिहास का संक्षिप्त परिचय देते हुए बात की जाए तो कोयले की सिगरी पर लोहे की ‘कढ़ाई’ में राल के साथ लाख को पिघलाया जाता है। इसके बाद इसमें सोपस्टोन पाउडर मिलाकर लाख तैयार किया जाता है। पिघले हुए लाख को लगातार दबाया जाता है और विभिन्न लकड़ी के औजारों की मदद से सपाट लोहे की प्लेट पर घुमाया जाता है।
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रंगीन लाख को एक साथ गर्म किया जाता है और फिर लाख पर समान रूप से लगाया जाता है। लाख के बेस पर रंग लगाने के बाद इसे फिर से एक पतली कुंडल में आकार दिया जाता है और लाख की प्लेन रॉड से काट दिया जाता है। अर्ध-निर्मित चूड़ी को उचित आकार में समायोजित करने के लिए एक गोल लकड़ी की बीम में रख दिया जाता है। फिर चूड़ियों को सुखाने के लिए अलग रख दिया जाता है। सफेद रंग बनाने के लिए गर्म लाख में टाइटेनियम मिलाया जाता है। इसके बाद विभिन्न रंग बनाने के लिए हरे, नीले, गुलाबी, सुनहरा, पीले जैसे प्राकृतिक स्टोन कलर्स को मिलाया जा सकता है।
लाख की चूड़ियां हैं म्हारो राजस्थान की शान
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राजस्थानी अनुष्ठानों को विशिष्ट पारंपरिक अलंकरणों के लिए जाना जाता है और विभिन्न त्योहारों में अलग-अलग पहनावा लोकप्रिय है। इसलिए इन चूड़ियों की बिक्री स्थानीय समारोहों जैसे तीज, गणगौर के मारवाड़ी त्योहार, करवा चौथ, होली, शादियों और होने वाली माताओं के लिए विशेष समारोहों के दौरान बढ़ जाती है। वास्तव में, प्रत्येक उत्सव को चूड़ी डिजाइन की एक विशिष्ट शैली के साथ पहचाना जा सकता है। उदाहरण के लिए, परिवार में एक शादी में “गुलाली चूड़ा” या लाल रंग की चूड़ी या “हरे बंदों का चूड़ा”, हरे रंग की चूड़ी की मांग होती है। गुलाबी रंग की चूड़ियाँ होली के दौरान विशेष रूप से पहनी जाती हैं।
