A walk through Prada’s Kolhapuri slip-up

It all began on June 22, 2025, when Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week. Among the designs was a brown toe-ring leather sandal that bore resemblance to India’s Kolhapuri chappals. These handmade Kolhapuri chappals were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in July 2019 (Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka).

Prada's sandals, priced at around ₹1.16 lakh per pair, made no mention of Kolhapur. The omission triggered swift accusations of cultural appropriation and unauthorised commercial use.

By June 28, via official correspondence, Prada had acknowledged that the sandals drew inspiration from traditional Indian footwear and recognised their cultural significance. The company insisted, however, that the product was still in the conceptual stage.

This was followed by a formal legal response on July 9, where Prada denied violating any GI terms. It clarified that:

• The sandals were not marketed or labelled as 'Kolhapuri'.

• No GI-related names or techniques were used in trade.

• There was no suggestion of origin from the GI-protected region.

According to Prada, it simply described them as “leather sandals”.

Amid the ongoing tension, Prada extended an olive branch. On July 16, its representatives visited Kolhapur, met with artisans, shopkeepers, and district officials, and initiated talks for a co-branded collection. The brand also expressed interest in establishing ethical supply-chain collaborations and upgrading the traditional footwear for global markets.

Meanwhile, in India, bodies such as the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce demanded an apology, compensation, and a halt on sales. A Public Interest Litigation (PIL) was filed in the Bombay High Court on July 4, calling out the misuse of the GI-protected design.

However, Indian legal experts on GI rights supported Prada’s position, noting that inspiration alone doesn't equal infringement. As long as Prada avoided using the GI name or implying regional linkage, no legal breach occurred under current Indian law.

On July 16, 2025, the Bombay High Court dismissed the PIL, stating that only registered GI holders, such as LIDCOM (Maharashtra) or LIDKAR (Karnataka), have the standing to file such cases. The court emphasised that the petitioner lacked the locus standi to sue under the GI Act.

Separately, LIDKAR issued a ₹500 crore legal notice to Prada, accusing the brand of exploiting the chappals’ GI status. Prada, in its reply, maintained it had not infringed any GI rights, and the case remains under review.

While Prada may have sidestepped legal consequences, the controversy has reignited crucial conversations about how global fashion houses engage with Indian crafts. The episode highlighted the need for ethical design practices, proper attribution, and equitable collaboration.

Interestingly, the spotlight on Kolhapuri chappals has had a ripple effect. Indian brands have reported a noticeable surge in both online and offline sales, with buyers drawn to their heritage appeal. Despite the initial backlash, Prada’s acknowledgement has helped place Kolhapuri chappals on the global fashion map.